Austria: the grass is greener on the other side

Unfortunately I was pretty happy to be leaving the Czech Republic; it had been plagued with problems for me: wasting precious time in police stations and garages. Entering Austria was magical. I didn’t think grass could get much greener but it can, and trees can get bushier and roads can get smoother. Arriving from the north you drive through amazing countryside. I didn’t know which way to look, surrounded by luscious hillsides and perfect meadows. It stopped me singing to myself inside my helmet for a while. It was a breathtaking sight after 2 weeks of cityscapes. I feel Austria was a nice little break from the urban travelling; a time to appreciate what the natural world has to captivate us. I also think I understand why I have a motorbike now. Riding the bends of a smooth mountain road and taking in the views: you really feel like you are there, alongside nature. As the wind ties your hair into a thousand knots, you feel every bug that hits you and the fresh smell of the cow shit joins you that bit earlier.



I stayed in two places in Austria. The first: Salzburg, the town where Mozart was born and the ‘Sound of Music’ was set. I wasn’t staying directly in town so I hired a bicycle and headed into town to see what was going on. Two hours later I was still heading into town. I couldn’t find it. The stunning old town centre with its ornate churches and cobbled street was not very well signposted. I had lost my map, which hadn’t been much use but it was something. Eventually nightfall set in and my stomach won. I gave up and went to the only place I could find to get some food. One thing I have noticed is that the Austrians love dessert; the strudels and sundaes feature before the savoury food on the menus. Banana split for dinner, I think the Austrians would approve.


Innsbruck was the next stop as the scenery developed into rugged mountains and snow capped peaks. It was a small city which enjoyed the two sides of Austrian life. In the centre: ornate buildings with endless cafes selling extravagant desserts and as you move up the valley edges towards the Olympic worthy slopes, cosy alpine lodges sit patiently waiting for the snow to arrive. I think the gingham bed linen in my hostel pretty much sums up the Austria I experienced. Except for maybe when I was in the cycling through the less travelled area of Salzburg dodging the crazy hobos.