23 Jun 2010

Bruges: chocolate streets and climbing up windmills

I knew very little about Bruges before I visited it and now I know about the same. Bruges taught metwo things: what an almshouse is and that some frites are not in fact vegetarian. These are the only two significant facts which remain in my head from the 24 hours I spent there. Did I miss something?? I had a ride on the boat through the canals and wandered the cobbled streets for hours. No I didn’t miss anything. The fact is that that is Bruges. A beautiful, serene, picture perfect town. The streets smell like chocolate and the people are warm and welcoming. Its only downfall for me was that there was nothing behind the picture. It was idyllic but it lacked the certain atmosphere, the buzz that I expect of an urban centre. Is this a Belgian thing though? By driving through and from previous trips to the country I notice that there is a very peaceful feel to the place. Sometimes too peaceful, almost as though the whole country has fallen asleep. I think to better understand the culture you would really need to spend longer here and get amongst local people away from the tourist havens.

Apparently 5000 tourists a day visit Bruges during summer but what is the attraction? Even the very helpful and amazing, locally produced tourism guide I was given at the hostel is unsure. They seem to suggest that throughout history Bruges has been insulted and each time it happens more people visit. Its most recent surge in popularity has been linked to the film ‘In Bruges’ and the quote that the town seems proud of-“ If I'd grown up on a farm and was retarded, Bruges might impress me. But I didn't, so it doesn't.”-Ray, played by Colin Farrell. Bruges is perfect for a short getaway if you want to do very little, enjoy lots of beer and chocolate and get lost in quiet streets but to look at culture and design; it was a bit of a faux pas. Nevertheless I enjoyed climbing up a windmill and driving along the flat picturesque roads. Next stop Rotterdam.

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